The Cooking Letters

Two friends, two coasts, one resolution

TIMING IS EVERYTHING

Nina,

I’m sad I couldn’t attend your dipping party. That looked like fun! Homemade chicken strips with organic chicken sounds super healthy. Why do kids go so crazy for chicken fingers anyway? It makes me think of my brother who is an experiment of medical science for basically eating only McDonald’s chicken nuggets and fries along with plain rice and noodles and Round Table pizza for much of his childhood.

This week, I attempted one of my all time favorite things to order at Italian restaurants: pasta alla carbonara. I used a recipe from our Good Housekeeping cookbook, which was perhaps my first mistake. It’s not especially time-consuming or difficult to make. But where it got tricky for me was with the egg you add to the sauce. Apparently, you don’t want to overcook the egg so that it starts to thicken up. But while I was watching the pasta boil and the bacon sizzle, that’s exactly what happened (see photo below). So… it was sort of like eating pasta with scrambled eggs and bacon. Not that this was bad. But it wasn’t the restaurant-style dish I had in my head, and it tasted more eggy than any carbonara I’ve ever had.

For future reference, I did a little research, and Ruth Reichl has a good recipe online. She says to just throw the raw egg onto the pasta, and it will cook up simply from the pasta’s heat. A-ha!

Angela

Anything but pizza

Hi Angela,

I thought I would be doing more cooking now that I only have one part-time job instead of two.

But then, last week, I think Marina ate pizza every day for seven days. She had it at Pizza Wednesday, she had it when the babysitter came over, when she went to a birthday party, when I was too lazy to cook, you get it.

Obviously I can’t allow that to keep happening.

It turns out I was given an assignment to review a bunch of different kids cookbooks. So I decided to add some protein into Marina’s diet by making homemade chicken strips.

I bought organic chicken and was amazed at the difference. The raw chicken breasts weren’t as gross and runny as the regular kind and it felt like it was easier to cut? Maybe that’s just me. I covered the strips in flour mixed with sea salt and pepper. You could have done a step where you dip it in egg, then breadcrumbs, but I didn’t.

The result was lightly browned chicken, which I knew the girls would not eat just plain. So we had a dipping party! I got tiny bowls and filled them with condiments: ketchup, mustard, Teriyaki sauce, sweet and sour Thai sauce and even mayo.

The trick worked on Ella and she ate a ton of it. Marina had one bite and ate like three pieces of corn on the cob. But it wasn’t pizza!

Success!

Nina

STIR-FRY AND GOING CRAZY IN THE PRODUCE AISLE

The other week, I was at my friend’s apartment to watch GIRLS, and while I was there, she made me this very tasty stir-fry. As she was making it, she kept saying it was the only thing she knew how to cook as though this was not an accomplishment. I’ve never made stir-fry before, and how you get the sauce to congeal just right on the vegetables all seemed like a mystery to me. So I thought I’d give it a shot.

I searched Epicurious, which I love, for a good recipe. I liked this one for Chicken and Broccoli Stir-Fry. It called for sherry. But because I didn’t have any, I used grappa. I never knew what grappa was until I moved to Carroll Gardens, where it is a prized drink among the old-school Italian-American men. Our friend bought a bottle of it for us as (I think) a joke about… oh, let’s see… five years ago? So, I put it to good use here. (The Italian Americans also love their Mary and Jesus candles, so there’s kind of a theme going on as you can see in the photo.)  I give this recipe five stars for ease (it seriously took no more than 30 minutes) and tastiness!

While I was shopping for all the veggies for the stir-fry, I couldn’t resist all the fruits that are now in season. So, for breakfast…fruit salad!

Angela

SHALL WE CALL THIS UKRAINIAN-FRENCH?

Nina!

I’ve never heard of Sam the Cooking Guy, but his appearance on the Today Show is priceless! Your shrimp dish looks great! I’ve never made shrimp before, so this is very inspiring. And anything with mayo is a winner, obviously.  

I know that it’s probably hard to tell, but the above not-so-appetizing-looking photo is of Beef Stroganoff. I used a combination of recipes, going mainly with Mark Bittman. But, when it looked really soupy at the end, I consulted our Good Housekeeping cookbook, which recommends adding flour to thicken it up. (Why did you not tell me this, Mark Bittman?) And! Again, because he never says to salt the meat, I completely forgot to do so, and we had to add a ton of salt at the table. Sigh. Nevertheless, it was still really good, and we were able to have it for two nights. 

So, now you’re probably wondering…how is this French exactly? I consulted Julia Child and used the French art of blanching on the carrots. Seriously, these FRENCH carrots may have been the best part of the meal. They had to be boiled for about 40 minutes with sugar AND salt because a good cookbook writer makes sure to tell you exactly how much salt to use. God bless that woman.  

Angela 

Thanks, Sam the Cooking Guy

Hi, Angela!

Yes, I do actually know about these fingerling potatoes. I saw them recently at Trader Joe’s and considered buying them to make the recipe, but chickened out at the last minute.

And I’m glad you like my bread hat. The man who took the photo was once a movie director, so he was very sure to get the lighting and angle right…

On to cooking!

Do you know anything about Sam the Cooking Guy? He’s a local guy with a cooking show that gets picked up on Discovery Health or something like that. A lot of people don’t like him because he’s not an actual chef, he just makes pretty good food using packaged stuff. I like him for that. And I love him because he told Kathie Lee and Hoda to shut up on the Today show.

One night I watched him get frozen shrimp and throw it in a super hot pan for a few minutes. Then he added some of that sweet Thai sauce and a tiny dab of mayo. It sounds weird, I know. But I decided to try it.

Being Jewish, I’m not sure if I’ve ever actually bought a bag of frozen shrimp (bottom feeders are a no-go for us) but whatever.

His biggest tip is to make the pan so hot that you see smoke rising from it. So I did that, added a dab of oil and cooked the shrimp until they were pink. After that came the Thai sauce and mayo (I think the mayo makes the sauce thicker?), which you mix up for another few minutes. I decided to add some green beans to make it fancy.

And after about 8 minutes, it was done! And it was good! The only thing is it stinks up the house quite a bit.

Nina

AND SPEAKING OF BREAD

First, I’ve never seen anyone look hotter with a loaf of bread on her head. I like your earrings, too. Maybe we should turn this into a personal-style blog if the cooking thing  falls apart. I wish I had seen your blog post before I cooked banana bread because then I would have put it on my head as well and taken a photo, so we could be bread-heads together. 

Though your ladies didn’t like the meat, I wouldn’t judge it a “disaster” based on the opinions of these young vegans in training. Sliders are the greatest. In fact,  I would argue that most things taste better when they are smaller, such as Reese’s mini cups and those little cucumber sandwiches you get at afternoon tea and … baby potatoes, which is what I cooked last week. They did come fresh in a bag, not frozen. They’re actually called fingerling potatoes. And I just cut them lengthwise and tossed them on a sheet with oil, salt and pepper. I remember Aaron’s sister once cooked something similar for us, and I thought she was a cooking wizard. Which she is. But I’ve learned in the last four months that making vegetables delicious is not as challenging as I once believed.

But back to banana bread. This recipe actually did not stretch my cooking skills this week because it’s probably the only dish I’ve been making consistently since Aaron and I moved in together and it seemed like a good idea to know how to cook at least one thing.

I don’t know if people are just being nice, but they always say they love this. So I’ll share my super secret recipe here. The foundation for the recipe actually came from the Good Housekeeping cookbook, but I’ve changed several key elements over the years. 

Banana Bread

Bake 1 hour and 8 minutes (don’t open the oven no matter how tempting it is to see it rise!)

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1 3/4 cups mashed very ripe bananas (as in covered in lots of brown spots but not overly black and mushy)

1/4 cup milk

3 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 cup butter (1 stick) softened

1 cup sugar (heaping)

2 large eggs

Step 1. Preheat oven to 350. Evenly grease 9” by 5” metal loaf pan. In medium bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda. In small bowl, combine bananas, milk, and vanilla (see top photo for what bowl of banana mush looks like).

Step 2. In large bowl, with mixer at medium speed, beat butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Reduce speed to low; (important!) alternately add flour mixture and banana mixture, beginning and ending with flour mixture, occasionally scraping bowl with rubber spatula. Beat just until blended.

Step 3. Pour batter into prepared pan. Bake until toothpick inserted in center comes out clean or cleanish (may need longer than 1 hour and 8 minutes depending on your oven).

Step 4. Cool in pan on wire rack for 10 minutes; remove from pan and cool completely on wire rack.

Angela

What to do with all this bread

Hey Angela,

That was a crazy episode of “Mad Men,” wasn’t it? What do you think that dream says about the state of Don Draper’s happiness?

Thanks for linking to the potatoes, did you really use a bag of frozen ones? For some reason I don’t picture you doing that even though it’s something that happens on a regular basis around here.

So, one of the perks of my second job is that I get really good bread for free. Usually I bring home challah or some rosemary/olive oil bread. But one day I decided to bring home a bag of slider buns in the hope that it would inspire me to cook.

(I didn’t actually take photos of the dinner but here’s a hilarious image for your amusement.)

The girls actually do like hamburgers and I figured this would be the kind of dinner I imagine other regular-eating families have. Mom prepares food, the kids sit at the table and eat it happily, you know.

I bought lean ground beef and mixed it up with a raw egg, kosher salt and pepper. I have a children’s cookbook that says you shouldn’t let too much air in the meat mixture because it will dry up. So I mixed it carefully with two forks and then made teeny, tiny patties.

They were so small they cooked super fast and I melted some cheese on them before putting them in the buns.

The first thing I heard was “I don’t want cheeeeese.”

OK, so I made two more without cheese and served them. Marina took a bite and claimed her gums hurt and could she please eat something soft, like yogurt? (To her credit, she had a disgusting canker sore.)

Ella ate half of it and then decided she would rather just have a hamburger bun with ketchup. And she did.

I ended up eating two sliders and then eating Marina and Ella’s leftovers. And because I hadn’t had red meat in a while, the food completely shut my system down. I got overwhelmingly tired. I was supposed to read the girls a book but I got in bed and told them to have independent reading time. I couldn’t move or open my eyes or anything.

So let’s just call this dinner a disaster.

Nina

A DREAM COMES TRUE: MAKING DINNER AFTER WORK

Just about everything edible has been labeled bad for us by someone. But I feel like big fish, such as salmon, has an especially bad reputation. Take this article titled “Salmon: Health Food or Pink Poison?” Yikes! I have no idea how to find the “safest” salmon, so I went with whatever was the most expensive. Necessary? I have no idea.

On a bed of ice, there were three kinds of salmon, but the only one labeled “organic” was Irish salmon and it was $19.99 a pound. I bought $15 of it and that seemed totally reasonable. Do I know what “organic” means in this case? Nope. But I have enough anxiety in my life, so I choose to believe “organic” equals “really good for you.” I also remembered that in The Corrections, Chip accidentally orders a piece of Norwegian salmon that is priced at $78, and so sticks it down his pants to steal it. Basically, Chip Lambert made me feel like my fish was really cheap and totally justified my choice.

On to the side dishes! From Cooking Light, I chose their garlicky asparagus and roasted red potatoes. As you can see from the above photo, the asparagus is just garlic, olive oil, salt and pepper. I put the potatoes in the oven at the same time as I did the fish. Both were cooked at 400 degrees for 20 minutes. I have to say, those potatoes were the best things I’ve made since Beef Bourguignon. Oh, and it was all so quick and easy that I finally achieved my goal of cooking on a weekday night!

Frankly, I don’t even know why I’m agonizing over $15 for salmon. If we’d gone out for dinner, it would have been way more expensive for two people.

And for dessert…

Angela

PS That chili looks beautiful!

They key to being an adult: a pot of chili

It’s weird that you started getting Cooking Light all mysteriously the very same month I let my 3-year subscription lapse.

I actually really liked that magazine. I’ve made tons of things from it and have a folder full of recipes that I’ve torn out. My favorite is spicy chicken thighs with peach quinoa, which is pretty fast and always makes me look like a good cook.

Basically, though, yes, I think your version of cooking is definitely, definitely much more labor intensive and fancy than the average person. Which is admirable and all, but, yeah, Moroccan vanilla is on the level of Gwyneth cooking.

So, OK, the chili. I’m sort of embarrassed at how easy it all was. I had to buy a bunch of canned beans and tomatoes and dump them in the Crock Pot. I was supposed to buy a turkey sausage, remove the casing and mash it up. But I couldn’t find an uncooked turkey sausage so I had to buy uncooked turkey breakfast links and remove the casing one by one. Then I had to chop an onion, but because I bought the onion a week before I actually made the chili, the onion was sorta rotten and I didn’t end up using it.

The result was a rather bland but filling chili. The best part was that a friend came over and hadn’t eaten, so having a pot of warm chili to offer her made me look very motherly and grown-up.

COOKING LIGHT MAKES ME FEEL LIKE A COOKING CHEATER

Last Saturday, I was once again struggling with what to make that would be fast and simple when the new issue of Cooking Light magazine appeared in my mailbox. I read the cover: “40 Meals Under 40 Minutes!” As I did not order this magazine, I felt as though the food gods were like, “Here! Now, stop complaining that cooking takes too much time already.”

But Cooking Light makes everything almost too easy. Not that this is bad—no, no, no! But it makes me feel like I’m cheating somehow. I made the above garlicky meatball pasta (mine did not look this beautiful), which really only involved me rolling some meat in basil, garlic and breadcrumbs and browning them. I used store-bought pasta and marinara sauce for the rest. It was delicious, but does this count as cooking?

Other recipes in Cooking Light call for slices of American cheese, Uncle Ben’s rice, and other time-saving and decidedly non-gourmet ingredients. But is my balking at this a part of the reason why I never cooked in the first place? Have I been making cooking out to be much more difficult than it really is? Where and when did I get the idea that cooking needed Herbs de Provence and Moroccan vanilla? And speaking of fast cooking… what happened with the Crock Pot chili?

Angela